Columbia Queen was originally designed and built by Delta Queen Steamboat as a new-age homage to America's historic steamboats (and it, along with siblings American Queen and Delta Queen are now part of the growing Majestic America fleet).

When describing the Columbia Queen, the words compact and cozy immediately come to mind. Add an easy-going, friendly, all-American ambience, and you get the picture. You'll feel right at home from the minute you walk up the bow ramp and step onboard for a welcome glass of Champagne.

Even the name, Columbia Queen, has a ring of familiarity. The riverboat was originally launched in 2000 and operated until 2002 when that line declared bankruptcy. Great American River Journeys acquired the vessel in 2004 and refurbished it for the April 2005 reintroduction to the Columbia River. When that company ceased operations, Columbia Queen was purchased by Majestic America. The ship will sail river cruises from April - October in the Pacific Northwest.

It's the little, unexpected perks that set the Columbia Queen apart from other U.S. river cruises, and that's the cut-above niche the line is trying to fill. Advertised goodies include robes in the staterooms, complimentary house wine with dinner, and a couple of postcards stamped and mailed. Surprises might be a rum punch after a full day's outing. The real standouts are the daily tours themselves. They are included in the cruise fare and are specially set up with guides in period or Wild West costume spinning yarns that bring Northwest history to life. Think cowboys, Native Americans and pioneers. The riverboat fits right in.

There are other elements that set the Columbia Queen apart from other riverboats, for better or worse, depending on what you expect from a river journey. The most obvious difference is that there is no big red paddlewheel as on the other riverboats that are part of Majestic America. The traditional calliope that announces arrivals and departures at various landings is also missing.

Dining

Meals take place in the Astoria Dining Room, the most Victorian space onboard. Rose and gold are the predominate colors. The ceiling is faux, old-fashioned stamped tin and lit by sparkling crystal chandeliers. The room transforms into the theater after dinner, thus the seating is designed with two long banquettes creating a ring around the stage and dance floor. Tables seat two (a handful), four or six.

You can sit where you like for breakfast and lunch. Dinner seats are assigned. While I generally prefer open-seating dining, as a solo cruiser I found it comforting to have assigned tablemates and to know I would not be eating dinner alone.

Breakfast is a buffet with all the usual morning fare, plus a station that may feature eggs one day and waffles the next. You can also order from a menu -- with items such as smoked salmon hash and pancakes. Lunch, too, is a buffet, plus a menu (the same every day) of salads, sandwiches, wraps and burgers. There are no trays, and no one helps you carry your plate to the table or seats you. The room is relatively small, so making several trips to the buffet is easily done. And there is plenty of space between tables to move. Service is spotty, perhaps due to the newness of the vessel. On several occasions, I had to hunt for a server, then ask for water, coffee or bread -- items which should be routinely offered. During the entire week I was not once asked if I wanted to order off the menu.

Dinner is served at two seatings, 5:45 and 7:15 p.m. There are two choices each for the appetizers, soup and salad. Main dishes (a choice of four plus one vegetarian) range from Northwest salmon to roast duck to prime rib. Several desserts are available with each meal. At dinner, complimentary Washington red and white wines are poured. These wines remain the same throughout the cruise. If you prefer, selections from the wine list are $18 to $48 a bottle, plus Dom Perignon for $145. Most wines come from Washington, Oregon and California.

You'll find a limited selection of lighter fare in the Back Porch on Deck 4. Coffee, tea, juices and soft ice cream are available 24/7. Continental breakfast includes pastries, bagels, fruit, yogurt and cold cereal. At lunchtime, you can get a hot dog, chili and cookies.

You can have continental breakfast delivered to your room, but I found it easier to run up to the Back Porch and take my coffee back to my room.

Public Rooms

The Columbia Queen is unusual in that nearly every room does double duty. The Purser's Lobby, which reminded me of a comfy living room with its leather sofas, acts as a lounge as well as the hub of the riverboat's business dealings. It's the library, too. The purser handles the loan of DVD's. E-mail is available here at one computer for about $2 per e-mail, either sent or received. Web surfing is not available.

The enclosed Back Porch (the light meal option) is a bright, white space with stick and rattan chairs. Fresh flowers and round white tables add a country kitchen air. With windows on three sides, it makes an ideal reading room, especially on rainy days. When it's sunny, you can relax in a rocking chair on the open spaces of Decks 3 and 4.

The onboard historian gives talks in the Explorer Bar and the Back Porch, and even the Astoria Dining Room during breakfast.

Cabins
When Great American River Journeys took over the Columbia Queen, they gave the staterooms a western look by placing brightly colored Pendleton Woolen Mill blankets and pillows on the beds. Artwork reflects the Pacific Northwest -- historic photos of Native Americans and paintings of natural attractions. The walls are partially covered with wood paneling, and the arts-and-crafts-style furniture would fit in at a ranch house. Storage is in an open cupboard and chest of drawers, ample for a week of casual cruising. Beds convert from twin to queen. Amenities in all cabins include a phone, TV with DVD, hair dryer and terry robes. The toiletries are minimal -- lotion and conditioning shampoo by Aromae. There is no safe. Electrical voltage is 110. There are no guest laundry facilities, though all cabins have an iron and ironing board.

There is one wheelchair-accessible stateroom. It happened to be mine, as there were no passengers needing it on my cruise. Lucky me. The cabin has a private balcony and is larger than other cabins in the same category. The ADA-approved bathroom is about twice the size of other bathrooms, as is the shower. Except for my cabin, all bathrooms are the same, with a glassed-in shower (no tub), pedestal sink and toilet.

There are four cabins in the top category (AAA). They are the largest onboard, measuring 235 square ft. Two face forward and open onto the public deck. Two face aft with windows overlooking the stern wake. The next category (AA) consists of 15 cabins (220 square ft.) with French balconies.

Next are 37 outside deluxe staterooms (A), at 165 square ft. These cabins are not created equal. Cabins on Deck 2 and most on Deck 3 have private balconies divided by metal partitions. The four aft cabins on Deck 3 and all in this category on Deck 4 have doors that open onto the public deck. In addition, when the smoke stacks are lowered to allow passage under low bridges, the four Deck 4 cabins nearest the stacks have their view almost totally obstructed. Deck space or balcony, the outdoor furniture consists of two metal chairs (no cushions) and a cocktail table.

Of the 81 staterooms, 25 are inside. These (B and C) measure 143 square ft., except for one single (F) that is 91 square ft.

Caveat #1: The interior cabins, while attractively furnished, are still on the inside with no way of looking out -- which seems a waste since river cruises are largely about seeing the scenery and life on the river. In comparison, other U.S. riverboats such as American West Steamboat Company's Queen of the West and RiverBarge Excursions' River Explorer have all-outside cabins, most with a picture window or balcony. To be fair, with all of Columbia Queen's included excursions, you probably won't be spending much time in your cabin.

Caveat #2: Aft cabins, especially the four on Deck 1, suffer from engine noise and vibration while the ship is underway, which is every night but one.

Hint: Due to their smaller size, the Columbia Queen's balcony cabins (165 square ft.) are priced below those with a French balcony (220 square ft.). If you like your private outdoor space, this is a bonus. But you had better book soon. Cabin categories are likely to change in 2006.

Entertainment
Daytime entertainment comes in the form of shore excursions, included in the cruise fare. If you choose to stay onboard, you're on your own.

Three comfortable new motor coaches mirror the route of the riverboat to take passengers on excursions. You have the same driver each day. Trips begin early, usually by 8 a.m. Several last all day and include a themed lunch ashore. Highlights for me were a visit to Pendleton's historic underground speakeasy, jet boating and picnicking on the Snake River, and a salmon luncheon at Washington's Skamania Lodge.

At night, immediately following dinner, the dining room becomes the showroom. Entertainment may be a cowboy humorist, singing trio, crew talent, a movie or bingo.

A pianist entertains in the Explorer Bar after the show. The grand piano, a large ship's wheel and wooden bar dominate the crescent-shaped, forward-facing room on Deck 3. If the bartenders wore costumes, the room could pass for a western honky-tonk. It's a good place to watch the passage through the river locks, as there are windows on three sides. This is the most popular bar for pre-dinner cocktails and hors d'oeuvres.

A grand staircase sweeps down to the Lewis & Clark Lounge, both the entrance to the dining room and the most elegant spot (though little used) for pre-dinner drinks.

Fitness & Recreation
Walking three-quarters of the way around the top deck and climbing the stairs instead of using the elevator sums up the onboard recreation. There is no gym, pool or spa, though you may join an occasional morning stretch in the Explorer Bar.

Family
There are no special facilities for children. If youngsters do cruise, the staff helps keep them entertained.

Fellow Passengers
Passengers come from all parts of the United States. They are a social, mobile group of seasoned cruisers, most in the 60- to 70-plus age range.

Dress Code
Dress is casual. Many passengers dress up a bit for the Captain's welcome and farewell dinners. About a third of the men wore jackets (no ties) on my cruise. The women wore business attire, nothing fancy.

Gratuity
Suggested tips are $4.75 per person, per night for your stateroom attendant, $4.75 for your dining room server and $3.50 for your bus person. Other tips (per cruise) are $3 for the maitre d', $10 for the coach driver and $4.50 for luggage porters. Tipping is done the old-fashioned way – in cash, placed in an envelope and handed to the deserving individual.

A 15 percent gratuity is added to bar bills.