The perky young staff serves meals at a single, open seating in the Lewis & Clark Dining Room. Passengers are encouraged to arrive promptly so that everyone can be served the same course at once. The room is furnished with rectangular tables for six and round tables for eight. Picture windows offer views on two sides. Mirrors cover the rear wall. Crystal chandeliers provide soft lighting. The menu features expertly prepared, all-American fare with emphasis placed on fresh regional fish and produce. Breakfast includes a buffet and cooked-to-order items. Lunch is a soup course followed by a choice of three dishes, perhaps a BBQ pork sandwich, chef's salad or pasta. Dinner begins with salad and soup. Three entrees are offered -- a fish (salmon, crab cakes), meat (rack of lamb, roast duck) and a vegetarian dish. The wine list offers a limited, reasonably priced selection from the West Coast, all available by the bottle or glass.

Quick, help-yourself breakfasts (cereal, rolls) and lunches (hot dogs, chili) are available in the Calliope Bar and Grill on the top deck. You can fix a cappuccino or juice 24 hours a day. The open-air venue is popular with smokers. In winter, cold air penetrates the temporary vinyl siding, despite the heat lamps.

Public Rooms
The Columbia Showroom on the lower, Explorer Deck is the primary hub of activity, from lectures to cocktails to nightly shows. By day, the Victorian-style room serves as an observation lounge, offering three-way views. Individual, upholstered chairs are arranged in rows interspersed with cocktail tables. Crystal chandeliers hang from the ceiling. A massive wooden bar stands in the corner opposite the bandstand and dance floor. Next door, the Riverboatique sells logo items and handles videos for in-cabin use.

For a cozy spot to curl up with a book, take the elevator up to Pioneer Deck and head to the aft Paddlewheel Lounge. The comfy armchairs are ideal for watching the paddlewheel turn, assuming you don't mind the constant drone. At night a piano player takes requests, but competition from the churning wheel keeps most passengers away.

An impressive collection of historic steamboat photographs and Pacific Northwest art is displayed throughout the ship. A detailed guide is provided in each cabin.

Cabins
There are 73 cabins in nine categories, ranging in size from 131 to 288 square ft. All are outside, two are wheelchair accessible and 25 have a verandah. The decor is early American with wooden wardrobes, deep green carpets and floral spreads. The hurricane-type bed lamps are fitting, but too dim for reading. Bed configurations vary from fixed twin or queen to convertible, so it pays to check. Four value cabins have upper and lower berths. Twelve have pull-down berths to accommodate third and fourth parties. All cabins have a TV/VCR. As there are no phones, wake-up calls are delivered over the in-cabin audio system. Bathrooms are the shower-only variety, and essentially identical. Hair dryers are not supplied.

Of the six spacious suites, four offer 180-degree views. Two on the top deck have windows facing to the sides and doors that open directly to the outside -- rain or shine. Extra amenities in the suites and six superior staterooms include a sitting area, flowers, terry robes, a mini-bar/fridge and room service for continental breakfast.

Entertainment
Following a showboat tradition established over 150 years ago, the evening's entertainers board (and disembark) the vessel each night. The sternwheeler's shallow draft and ingenious bow ramp bring the shore within easy reach. Shows run the gamut from riverboat jazz to country-western to a magic act. The resident band plays dance music before dinner and after the show, but by 10 p.m. most passengers call it a night.

Fitness & Recreation
There are no fitness facilities aboard. Walking is limited to circling three of the vessel's decks and non-strenuous jaunts ashore.

Family
None.

Fellow Passengers
Queen of the West attracts a 50-plus crowd, the average age being 72. The majority of the passengers are Americans looking for a scenic slice of the west combined with tours that bring the area's colorful history to life. Due to the lack of onboard activities and the educational nature of most shore excursions, these cruises are not suitable for small children.

Dress Code
Except for hot summer days, plan to dress in layers, including a warm sweater and rainproof jacket. Casual, comfortable clothing is the norm. For the Captain's Farewell Dinner, about half the men wear a jacket (tie optional).

Gratuity
The suggested tip is $8 to $10 per person, per day to be pooled for distribution among the crew. A 15 percent gratuity is automatically added to bar bills.