Although the bathroom countertop is “Corian,” the other fixtures are of poor quality. A 3-foot-square tub with a seat is too small to lounge in. The shower is hand-held – but there is a hair dryer. The amenities are one small bar of soap and two small foil packets of shampoo – a one-time-only use.

Closet space is adequate, but there is no room to store suitcases. The beds seemed hard at first sight, but we slept very comfortably and the temperature control was perfect.

The top deck was fully open-air – just a small canopy for sun protection. We didn’t need it in December – temperature in the low 70s – but I would think that it could be uncomfortable in the summertime. It is well set up with table and rattan furniture and a few lounge chairs. There is a pool and Jacuzzi, and although they were filled, it was too cool to “go for a dip.”

Fitness and Recreational Facilities:

The upper deck is very pleasant while cruising or sitting in port. If the weather is warm and not too breezy, a barbecue buffet lunch is served. Waiter service from the bar is convenient. The Nile is narrow, so it’s easy to take in the village life of the countryside – farmers, shepherds, fishermen. It takes you back 3,000 years or more.

The fitness center – oh well – you spend two to three hours a day walking and climbing while touring – I guess that takes care of it.

Dining:

Unlike the large cruise ships that Americans envision, with 18-to-24-hour-a-day availability of food, these river cruisers have set mealtimes. It works on the Nile, because since you have “places to go and things to see,” you’re on a schedule!! Early buffet breakfast and off to a temple – back on board for buffet lunch either topside or in the dining room, depending on the weather. Then cruising for 3 hours or so – more sightseeing or free time to explore the village and then it’s time for dinner and dancing.

The sole dining room is nondescript. It has an airy feeling because of the large windows, but space between tables is at a premium. You do notice the crowding, since meals are mostly buffets. There are tablecloths and the waiters try hard to please. Language is sometimes a problem and no one is in a hurry.

The food is ordinary – not exceptional. Soups are bland – salads are good, but most guests are afraid to eat raw vegetables in a foreign land. Beef is always served well-done and sometimes it’s called veal. Lamb is very tasty. Chicken is served in many ways.

Our most common complaint was lukewarm food, slow lines and food trays that are not timely replenished or freshened. Pastas are hit or miss – sometimes excellent and tasty, at other times, sticky and sauceless. There are tons of desserts – none of them seemed worth the calories.

Entertainment, Bars, and Lounges:

The bar!!! Wow!!! Remember that Egypt is a Muslim country. The physical layout of the bar is fine – a dozen or so bar stools; English-speaking bartenders; sofas, chairs, and tables surrounding the dance floor; full-length windows lining both sides of the lounge so that it’s an inviting spot to watch the countryside in the daytime while cruising if the top deck is too cool or breezy.

Now the disappointing part – vodka (Finlandia), gin (Gordon’s), and rum (Bacardi) were tried by eight of us. Not drinkable - not the flavor we're used to. So stick with wine or beer. Wine: not much choice – you don’t need to be a connoisseur to make a decision. It’s white or red – only one of each. They have no imported wines on the cruise – too expensive because of the duty, they tell us. You must order a bottle ($10 US) – they do not sell by the glass. If you don’t drink it all, you cork it, take it with you and bring it to the next meal or cocktail lounge.

Highlights:

When you travel from Aswan to Luxor, you are experiencing history as it progressed from the older to the younger civilizations. The itinerary can also be done in reverse – more recent to 1,500 BC. We traveled from Aswan to Luxor and enjoyed it very much. Since the locks were closed for annual maintenance, we had the opportunity to experience two of the Queen Nabila vessels – one from Aswan to Edfu and then transferred by bus to the next cruiser for the Luxor portion of our voyage.

The mode of transport – sailing on a river - certainly beats sitting on a bus or train. There is no need to pack and unpack or check into and out of hotels. The boats dock right in the center of the town or village and you can walk off or on at any time. No need to make decisions or spend time planning how to get to the temple or tomb or at what time it opens or offers the English-speaking tour – the tour directors and Egyptologist that accompanies you throughout take care of everything – even tipping and luggage transport.

Everything that you encounter is mind-boggling or at least memorable – the simple village life, the enormity of the temples, the colorful, bustling markets, the number of stars in the sky.

Family Activities:

There are virtually no family activites on board. Only a couple of teenagers were in the groups – it may be different in the summer. Children over 7 years old would learn so much on a trip like this – better than a year of Egyptian history in school. The family activities would be the excursions to the villages, tombs, temples, quarries and markets.

Cruise Passengers:

Everyone on this cruise was part of an organized tour group. There were two groups from the US and one from Canada. The 120 guests ranged in age from teens to 70s and 80s. Everyone was friendly, but there was not much time for mingling because each group, although on the same itinerary, was on a separate time schedule for touring and breakfast.

Tips and Suggestions:

1. Choose as high-quality a cruise as you can afford. Accommodations and service are more European – not the level that Americans are accustomed to according to the ratings (five stars in Egypt is like three stars in the US).

2. Bring good walking shoes – pavement is very uneven and the boarding walkway to the cruise ship is basically a wide plank with two rope rails.

3. Unless you can make do with miniature soap bar and shampoo, bring your own supply.

4. It gets cool as soon as the sun goes down. Don’t be fooled by the temperature readings – it feels much cooler. I often borrowed my husband’s sweater or jacket because I only brought one light jacket.

5. Carry tissues to be used as toilet paper and “Purel” to clean your hands – everything is dusty and people always want to shake your hand.

6. Lots of small bills will go a long way for bargaining and tipping. No one seems to ever have change, and if they see big bills - the price does not come down so quickly.