Winston Churchill called Russia "a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma." Those of us who grew up in the 1950s and 60s still recall visions of Mother Russia as a growling bear grasping nuclear warheads in her bared teeth. Of course, our vision of Russia today is vastly different, but the mystery remains.
My Russian river journey aboard Viking River Cruises' MS Pakhamov helped to unwrap that mystery for me. I spent 13 days immersed in the Russian climate and culture, seeing historical sites as well as the daily lives of the Russian people. Viking River Cruises' shipboard staff makes the trip a learning experience, since it includes four English-speaking tour guides and a lecturer with a Ph.D. in history from the Russian State University for Humanities. It added up to one of my most memorable and educational voyages ever.
Moscow Canal-Volga River Choices
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| Lecturer |
Several companies offer cruises along what is known as the Moscow Canal-Volga River route. Viking River stands out with a comprehensive package that includes tours, meals and even airfare for a reasonable price. And English is the ship's sole language for lectures, tours and services.
The cruises operate between Moscow and St. Petersburg, and the ship remains anchored in both cities from two to four days, depending on which itinerary you choose (10, 11 or 12-day). The trip between the two cities takes a standard five days, so the length of the package will determine how long you stay in these major cities (the number of days includes transportation days from the U.S. to Russia). The cruise between Moscow and St. Petersburg is interesting and idyllic, but the city experiences are the highlights of the trip. I recommend taking the 12-day trip, or your time in Moscow and St. Petersburg will be compacted to the point of frustration.
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| standard cabin |
Ships plying the Russian routes are generally older and larger than typical European river cruisers. Our vessel included four decks (with crew quarters) and accommodations ranging from 90 sq. ft. cabins to suites with a separate living room (with fold-out bed) and bathtub.
I heard rumors of remarkable last-minute discounts on the 90 sq. ft. cabins, probably because the ship has an overabundance of them. They are really too small, with barely enough room for two cot-like beds and a bathroom where the shower sprays over the toilet. A better choice is the 200 sq. ft. mini-suite with a double bed and standard shipboard bathroom. Viking River's Russian cruises are pre-sold to various tour operators, and "Viking River Cruises" in the United States is just one of them. Cabins are pre-assigned to these operators, and if Viking River in the U.S. tells you a cruise is sold out, you might still get a cabin through a British company like New Caledonia Tours.
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| mini-suite |
All cabins include a refrigerator, and the wisest folks stock them with snacks and water (drinking shipboard tap water is
nyet; large bottles are available onboard for $2.00). The ship does not offer room service or any food at all between meals, except for candy and sandwiches on sale during bar hours. The meals are exceptionally good, prepared by an Austrian chef, although the only choice on the menu is between a meat or fish entrée.
Communication with the outside world is practically non-existent; there are no TVs or telephones in any cabins. If you need to phone the outside world during the river voyage between the major cities, you probably won't get a cellular signal. You are effectively cut off for five days. Russia's infrastructure is remarkably limited outside the major cities.
Our trip began in Moscow and ended in St. Petersburg.
Moscow
Our passenger load consisted of four groups: two British, one Canadian and the "independents" -- mostly Americans who booked on their own. Each of us was assigned an English-speaking Russian tour guide who stayed with us the entire voyage, including mealtimes and even on the bus to the airport at departure time (mine left at 4:15 a.m.).
The ship's dock is a 40-minute bus ride northwest of downtown Moscow at the Volga-Moscow River junction. Taxis are available for the independent-minded ($25 from dockside, $15 from the main road), but since our schedule was chock-a-block full of tours from Viking River -- which are included in the trip price -- no one bothered with a cab.
The first tour took us to the Kremlin. On the way is Russia's first McDonalds, in Pushkin Square. Our guide said she waited 3 1/2 hours for her first Big Mac the day it opened. Then the tour passes the Bolshoi Theater and the KGB Building.
The first thing that struck me about Russia is the dilapidation of buildings, both public and private. During the Communist era, housing was free, and the state still owns nearly all the land. There are two styles of Russian apartment buildings -- the "Stalins," and the Kruschevs." The former are sturdily built stone structures with elaborate ornamentation, but there weren't enough of them to house all the people when Kruschev mandated every citizen should have free housing. So in the 1960s, Russia started a large-scale campaign to quickly build more housing. These ramshackle, multi-story boxes were designed to last only 10 years in the bitter Russian climate. Kruschev believed Communism would succeed brilliantly enough that new housing would replace them before they deteriorated, but 40 years later they are still the predominant form of housing.
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| Kremlin |
The Kremlin Armory contains relics of Russia's imperial history. Look for Peter the Great's jackboots (he was 6'6") and the sable coronation gown of Catherine II, who had her lower ribs removed to shrink her waistline. There are gilded coaches, jeweled crowns and Faberge eggs. A porcelain serving set of hundreds of pieces was a gift to the monarchy from Josephine, wife of Napoleon, five years before his army sacked Moscow.
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| cannon |
The Kremlin no longer contains the government buildings; they are in nearby Red Square, but it does have three Russian Orthodox churches with magnificent golden onion domes, as well as the world's largest cannon (built in 1586) and the world's largest bell. It cracked before it could be lifted into place and so remains on the ground in two pieces.
After this tour, the schedule calls for a return to the ship for lunch. After lunch, we covered the same route back into the city to visit the Tretyakov Art Gallery. This is a 45-minute trip each direction, taking 2 1/2 hours away from our sightseeing in Moscow. Had I known the gallery was 10 minutes from the Kremlin by cab, I would have opted for free time in downtown Moscow and met the group after lunch.
The Tretyakov Gallery contains an impressive array of Orthodox icons and other notable Russian artwork, but since the Hermitage awaited in St. Petersburg,
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| Peter Statue |
I chose to see more of what interests me personally, Russia's 20th Century history.
A brisk walk from the museum is Statue Park, which is popular with locals, especially young lovers. The Russian people's emergence from a Communist regime to an open society is fascinating, and Statue Park contains some of telling examples of how they feel about the experience.
Among the abstract and experimental modern pieces are monolithic statues of the former Communist leaders created in their heyday. Today they are mutilated and soiled. A statue of Stalin originally meant to capture his stoic determination has had an added element today: hundreds of desperate stone faces trapped behind a wire fence.
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| Stalin in Ruins |
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| stone faces |
To find this park from the bus area, cross over the bridge to the Tretyakov Gallery, turn right and follow the river toward the statue of Peter the Great, which abuts the Red October Chocolate Factory. This 93-meter statue of Peter is worth the walk. It was originally created to represent Columbus, intended as a gift for the United States in the early 1900s, but no American city wanted it, so the face was changed to Peter's and it was erected in Moscow.
Our evening's entertainment was the famous Moscow Circus - one of my most memorable experiences ever. Can a bear drive a car? Can two people catapult a man 40 feet into the air and have him land upright - on 10-foot stilts?
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| St. Basil |
Day Two in Moscow began with a visit to Red Square. The sights here include St. Basil's Church with its famous onion domes; the former GUM department store, now little more than an upscale shopping mall; the offices of Premier Vladimir Putin; and the infamous Lenin's Tomb.
We spent the balance of our day aboard the bus touring more city sites, including Moscow University and some of the newer residential areas. In all, Moscow is a fascinating city full of history. Our guides pointed out the location of several seminal events related to the "Great War" (WWII) and the fall of Communism. Our time in Moscow was too short, and I heartily recommend the cruises that offer three full days there. Read the brochure carefully to determine your itinerary.
There are some cruises you take to forget your daily life, and others you take to enrich your life and learn. I have been on several cruises that explore regions of historical significance, but few that offer the ability to see history unfolding.
The river trip between the major urban centers is where passengers begin to get a true feel for the Russian culture and people. And Viking River's onboard enrichment series one of the best I have ever experienced on a cruise. Besides the four English-speaking tour guides, our cruise featured an onboard lecturer, Maria Gordeeva, who holds a Ph.D. in History from the Russian State University for Humanities. She presented five lectures on board, covering Russian history, the economy, and three rulers -- Gorbachev, Yeltsin and Putin.
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| Russian Staff |
Maria's fully attended lectures were quite candid about politics and the nature of the Russian people, especially her stories about Russia's Communist years and the transition to a free economy. During Maria's lectures, the Russian enigma unravels, and one begins to understand the nation's psyche and how it led to the events that changed history. One story sums up the dichotomy between how we perceived Russia during the Cold War and the reality of what was happening there. Catherine the Great had trysts with several men whom she rewarded with well-paid appointments. Her favorite, Potamkin, was assigned to bring European culture to the feudal areas south of Moscow. When Catherine checked his progress in a surprise visit, Potamkin erected false facades of villages for the queen's viewing, tore them down when she left, and re-erected them in a new location to meet her coach the next day. The ruse is known as "Potamkin's Village," and it is a perfect metaphor for the American perception of 20th Century Russia.
Sailing north out of Moscow, the first stop on the cruise is Uglich, site of the Church of St. Dimitry of the Blood, built on the site where the nine-year-old son of Ivan the Terrible was found slain. The town itself is unremarkable, but visitors can find good prices on souvenirs. There is also an Internet cafe.
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| Yaroslavl |
The next day features Yaroslavl, the largest Russian city between Moscow and Archangel. St. Yaroslavl, who killed the sacred bear worshipped by the local pagans, founded it in 1010. The local theater was the first (1985) to produce "Jesus Christ, Superstar," which was considered extraordinary during the Communist era. Inside is a puppetry museum and our first chance to buy good quality souvenirs. It is important to watch out for cheap imitations and shoddy workmanship in Russian crafts. Highly popular are hand-painted lacquered boxes, but there are many clever fakes with decorations printed on the box. The only solution is to buy from a reputable place and look for detail and sharpness of color.
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| Elijah the Prophet |
The interior of the Church of Elijah the Prophet is decorated (see photos) with some of the oldest frescoes in Russia. The church's history is a telling tale about religion before, during and after the Communist era. During Stalin's rule, the church was slated for destruction, to be replaced with a "People's Cultural Center." Local officials managed to stop the destruction, but the church was re-designated as a warehouse for Russian felt boots until 1991. During the August 1991 Communist attempt to re-take the government, the only thing the citizens of Yaroslavl knew was that state-run TV showed nothing but the Bolshoi Ballet for 48 hours. But city officials who telephoned Moscow acquaintances learned Yeltsin had gone to the "White House" and persuaded the tanks to stand down. Then they went directly to the church and handed the keys back over to the clergy.
Our tour of Yaroslavl included a folkloric show and a visit to the local market. Here one realizes how poor the Russian people really are. Produce is scarce and comes from private gardens. Electronic goods are not available. Clothing is cheaply made and styles are years out of date. One thing is plentiful, however: liquor stores offering Russian vodka.
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| Meat Market |
The next scheduled stop along the way is Kizhi, an island refuge in the middle of Lake Onega, which features extraordinary examples of Russian wooden architecture. Unfortunately, we missed Kizhi since our September itinerary was late in the season at this latitude (equal to Alaska), and fog prevented all river traffic from moving at night, so we had to make up lost time during the day.
St. Petersburg
Viking River's three full days in St. Petersburg offers passengers an opportunity to really get to know the city. If you have never been there, you will want to take all of the tours offered; and if you have visited before on a Baltic cruise, you will relish the opportunity to explore the city on your own.
Day one includes a visit to the Peter and Paul Fortress, with the graves of the murdered Romanovs, Peter the Great, Catherine II and the balance of Russian nobility. A visit to the Hermitage Museum follows. The guided tour (highly recommended) lasts about three hours and covers everything, though somewhat briefly. Avoid the temptation to leave the group, or risk getting lost in the labyrinth and missing some of the most important pieces.
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| Ballet |
An optional tour to Catherine the Great's Pushkin Palace is offered on day two. This is worth a visit if you haven't seen it before, but a day exploring on your own is also an option. I chose to take the subway across the Neva River to the university district. My first stop was the Museum of Russian Political History, which is in the former home of Prima Ballerina Matilda Kshesinskaya, a lover of Czar Nicholas II. The building became Lenin's Bolshevik headquarters after the dancer fled to America, and his office is intact. His desk faces the balcony from which he rallied the Russian revolutionary troops. One room, dedicated to U.S.-Soviet relations, contains historical documents signed by Stalin, Roosevelt, Kruschev, Gorbachev and Bush. One exhibit is dedicated to pro-Soviet sentiment in the U.S. during the height of Cold War.
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| Lenin's Office |
The apartment of Kirov, the first Soviet mayor of St. Petersburg and the first victim of Stalin's political purges, is a beautifully maintained example of Stalin-era architecture and furnishing. The 12-room luxury apartment is in nearly the same condition as the day he was shot. Kirov's jacket and hat, complete with bullet hole, are on display. Admission is fifteen cents.
Both of these museums were so uncrowded that the staff literally turned on the lights for me. Also nearby are the first log cabin of Peter the Great, with original furniture; the battleship cruiser Aurora, whose cannon signaled the Bolshevik revolutionaries to storm the Winter Palace; and the Russian Military Museum, where one can sit on Soviet artillery once used against the advancing German army.
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| Peterhof |
The third day begins with a trip to Peterhof, the palace occupied by Nicholas II before the entire Romanov family was exiled and eventually murdered. The stunning gardens and beautifully renovated palace were dangerously close the German front during the Great War and were only saved by carrying them away piece by piece and then rebuilding them in the last few decades.
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| Swan Lake |
The evening's entertainment was a visit to the Mussorgsky Opera and Ballet Theater for Swan Lake. This beautiful and intimate venue was only outdone by the skill of the 40-plus dancers accompanied by a live orchestra. This is flawless ballet at its finest, performed by the most dedicated dancers in the world.
Returning Home
The onboard tour guides who had been with us the entire trip were even on the buses that took us to the St. Petersburg airport, even though they departed at 4:30 a.m.
All in all, a Russian river cruise is a one of the most fulfilling experiences I can imagine. One could skip the small river ports and spend more time in Moscow and St. Petersburg, where shipboard accommodations are a good deal. In both cities, hotels and transportation are unreliable and expensive (a cocktail at the Grand European Hotel in St. Petersburg is $12). The quality of food in restaurants is questionable, the water is undrinkable, and there is very little signage in English. The benefits of using a river boat as your floating home away from home are obvious.
For your Russian river cruise discounts contact 800-640-4899
Review Viking Russia
